Unbelievably warm day for a surf trip to North Devon. Webcam suggested a small clean swell. When we got down there by midday it was booming with strong offshores. Croyde was low tide and looked heavy with a powerful shorebreak. Rich was keen but Paul and myself liked the look of Saunton. Majority vote saw us heading back to our roots at Saunton. Having mainly surfed Cornwall over the past 20 years Id' forgotten just how tough the paddle was here. Half a mile out and on this swell it just seemed such a massive take off spot. Fitness and acute awareness that I was going to get caught inside for an hour left me frustrated. Rich seemed to be in tune with the conditions catching some lovely long overhead rights. Plenty of folk on the beach and in the sea - some in shorties no less in March!
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Croyde showing some size |
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Oyster Falls breaking way off Downend Point |